Effective methods, such as applying diatomaceous earth and using barrier techniques around plants, can help. Keep reading to discover other strategies for getting rid of them.

Key Takeaways

• Turning the soil and using diatomaceous earth are safe ways to get rid of cutworms without harming the environment.
• Watering your lawn in the morning and using cardboard collars around plants can protect plants and lower the number of pests.
• Insecticides and changing where you plant crops each season can stop serious cutworm problems.

1. Keep Soil Turned

Regularly turning the soil can disrupt cutworm pupae and eggs. Tilling exposes the pests to the elements and predators. This practice also aerates the lawn, making it harder for cutworms to overwinter and lay eggs.

Aim for shallow tilling to avoid disturbing beneficial soil organisms while keeping the cutworms at bay.

2. Apply Diatomaceous Earth to Affected Areas

Diatomaceous earth is a natural powder made from fossilized aquatic organisms. It is sharp on a microscopic level, making it lethal to different cutworm species. Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the base of plants and on the soil surface where cutworm damage has been observed.

Reapply after rain or watering to maintain its effectiveness. While safe for plants and humans, wearing a mask when applying helps avoid inhaling the dust. This method is particularly effective against emerging cutworm larvae during early spring.

3. Water Your Lawn in the Morning

Regularly watering in the morning may lessen the risk of lawn diseases. It also creates a less favorable environment for cutworms. Moisture encourages the worms to stay near the soil surface, making them more vulnerable to predators.

4. Use Cardboard Collars to Protect Seedlings

Cardboard collars may be a physical barrier, protecting young seedlings from cutworm larvae. You can make these collars from toilet paper rolls or sections of cardboard and push them into the soil around the base of infested plants.

The plant collars should extend about an inch above and below the soil level. To help maintain moisture, you can also add a layer of mulch around the collars. For more durability, aluminum foil can also be used.

5. Avoid Over-Fertilizing Your Lawn

Using too much fertilizer can make your lawn more attractive to cutworms. Balanced fertilization helps keep plant growth manageable. So, it does not attract cutworms looking for lush, new growth.

Over-fertilizing also weakens plant stems. This makes it easier for cutworms, grubs, slugs, and armyworms to cause damage.

6. Keep Your Lawn Mowed and Remove Debris

Cutworm larvae often hide in tall grass, leaf litter, and other garden debris. By keeping your lawn mowed and removing plant litter regularly, you can reduce their hiding spots.

This also helps to prevent the caterpillars from migrating from weedy areas into your garden. Regular mowing and debris removal should be part of your maintenance.

7. Apply Insecticide for Cutworms Safely

Insecticides can be an effective tool for pest management against severe cutworm infestations but should be used sparingly to minimize risks to beneficial insects and plants. Products containing the active ingredient carbaryl target species like black cutworms.

Follow the instructions on the pesticide label carefully to reduce risks to beneficial insects and plants. Early application in the growing season can prevent cutworm larvae from becoming adult moths.

8. Practice Crop Rotation in Gardens

Crop rotation disrupts the life cycle of cutworms by depriving them of a consistent host. Without access to their preferred vegetable plants, they struggle to find suitable plants to lay eggs. This method also promotes soil health and reduces the buildup of pests and diseases.

The post 8 Tips for Getting Rid of Cutworms in California appeared first on Sodlawn.

Many homeowners struggle with these pests, but you can save your lawn with the right approach. Read on to learn essential tips and tricks for reclaiming your yard from these nuisances.

Key Takeaways

• Sod webworms can harm your lawn by eating the grass and creating brown patches.
• Knowing what webworms look like and how they grow helps you get rid of them.
• Natural predators or commercial products can help control webworm problems.
• Keeping your lawn healthy with deep watering and regular care can prevent webworms from coming back.

How to Treat a Lawn Infested with Web Worms

Sod webworms can wreak havoc on your lawn. Addressing the problem involves identifying the pests, learning their life cycle, considering natural control methods, and using commercial treatments.

Step 1. Learn How to Identify Web Worms in Your Lawn

Webworms start as larvae, feeding on grass leaves and causing brown patches. In the thatch layer, look for silken tunnels and small green or beige caterpillars.

Adult webworm moths fly around the lawn in the late afternoon and early evening. They have a noticeable wingspan and a white underbelly.

Step 2. Understand the Life Cycle of Webworms

Webworms have a life cycle from eggs to adult moths. Eggs hatch into larvae, which burrow into the thatch and feed. As larvae feed, they grow into caterpillars. After maturing, they pupate in the soil, emerging as lawn moths.

Typically, larvae can overwinter in the soil during the cold months. They can become active in warm-season turfgrasses like Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass. These pests can also affect cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass.

To effectively control sod webworms, it’s crucial for treatments to coincide with their larval stage.

Step 3. Mowing Methods to Control Webworms

Proper mowing practices, such as avoiding cutting the grass too short, can further deter webworms. Consider other practices, such as removing excess thatch and using endophyte-enhanced fescue.

Step 4. Use Commercial Products to Treat Webworms

If natural methods aren’t effective, you can turn to commercial products with stronger ingredients. Common ones include insecticides like bifenthrin or pesticides containing granular formulations.

Apply products in the late afternoon when larvae are most active, as this is when they come closer to the surface to feed. 

Professional pest control might be necessary for severe lawn infestations.

How to Prevent Future Web Worm Infestations

Simply learning how to get rid of sod webworms isn’t enough. Keeping them and other pests at bay is the ultimate goal.

Here are the lawn care steps to take to ensure a green lawn year-round:

1. Keep the grass longer to encourage deep rooting and create an environment less favorable for webworms.
2. Water the lawn deeply but infrequently to promote strong root growth and help the grass resist pests.
3. Apply a balanced fertilizer with a spreader to strengthen the grass and make it more resilient to lawn pests.
4. Opt for grass types less prone to web worms and diseases by consulting with a local nursery.
5. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil surface to naturally remove web worms without harming the lawn.
6. Use insecticidal drenches to target larvae, ensuring they are safe for your grass type.
7. Aerate your lawn to improve soil health and reduce compaction, making it less hospitable for pests.
8. Rake regularly to control thatch buildup, the layer of organic matter between the soil and grass.
9. Check your lawn regularly for signs of web worms to catch infestations early and prevent further damage.

Related: 8 Tips for Getting Rid of Cutworms in California

The post How to Get Rid of Web Worms in Your Lawn appeared first on Sodlawn.

Read on to learn the steps and tips to protect your garden from these invasive insects.

Key Takeaways

• Neem oil and beneficial nematodes can be effective natural solutions for army worms.
• Liquid and granular insecticides offer stronger, chemical-based control for severe infestations.
• Regular mowing, aeration, and proper fertilization can help prevent armyworms from returning.

How to Get Rid of Armyworms Naturally

Dealing with army worms, particularly those from the Spodoptera genus, can be tricky. Natural methods are available that offer effective short-term management options.

Apply Neem Oil

Neem oil is a natural pesticide that can help keep army worms in check. Derived from the seeds of the neem tree, this oil contains compounds that disrupt the feeding and reproduction of many garden pests.

For pest control, mix about two teaspoons of neem oil with a quart of water and a few drops of dish soap. Adjust the mixture proportionally for larger lawns, ensuring the neem oil concentration remains consistent.

Introduce Beneficial Nematodes

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worms that can target and kill armyworms. They hunt for large numbers of pests in the soil, infecting them with bacteria that eventually kill the host.

These natural predators are especially effective in late summer when armyworm infestations tend to spike in the South.  They’re safe for plants, pets, and humans.

How to Get Rid of Armyworms with Insecticides

Combatting armyworm infestations can also involve targeted chemical treatments to protect your plants effectively.

Apply Liquid Insecticides

Liquid insecticides are a common and effective method for controlling army worms. These treatments often involve mixing a concentrated insecticide with water in a sprayer.

Depending on the product, apply it directly to the foliage or soil where they are most active. When applying, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid harming beneficial insects.

Use Granular Insecticides

Granular insecticides offer an alternative form to control armyworms. They are small, pellet-like granules impregnated with pesticides that you apply directly to the soil or plants. These granules slowly release the insecticide as they dissolve.

Make sure the granules are evenly scattered across the area to hit all the infested spots. Watering after application helps activate the granules.

What Are the Early Signs of Armyworms Coming Back

Knowing the tell-tale signs that armyworms are returning to your garden can help you act quickly. As homeowners, here are the warning signs to be aware of:

How to Prevent Armyworms from Coming Back

Army worms can cause havoc on lawns, but proactive steps can keep them at bay. Here’s how to keep armyworms away:

• Mow regularly to keep grass blades short and remove hiding places and food sources.
• Maintain healthy turf grasses like fescue or Bermuda grass, which can make your lawn less attractive for pupae.
• Water in the early morning to prevent the lawn from becoming too dry, as they are attracted to dry thatch and grass.
• Aerate and overseed to create a dense lawn, making it harder for adult moths to lay eggs.
• Remove thatch buildup by raking or using mechanical equipment to reduce armyworm shelter.
• Fertilize correctly with a balanced schedule to boost plant health without encouraging pests. 

The post Armyworms: Top Tips for Prevention and Treatment appeared first on Sodlawn.

To get rid of lawn gnats, it’s crucial to address moisture issues and eliminate their breeding grounds.

Are there specific reasons why your lawn might be attracting these pests? Keep reading to learn how to get rid of gnats with more effective methods.

Key Takeaways

• Solving a gnat issue requires you to address root causes, such as overwatering and poor drainage.
• Eco-friendly gnat control options include beneficial nematodes, diatomaceous earth, and repellent plants.
• If DIY efforts fail, specialists in lawn care and pest control can provide effective treatments for gnat infestations.

1. Check for Overwatering and Poor Drainage

Overwatering your lawn can result in persistently moist soil (standing puddles or saturated soil), an ideal breeding ground for fungus gnats.

To alleviate this, here’s what you can do as homeowners:

• Check soil moisture: Avoid watering if the soil is still moist.
• Improve drainage: Aerate the lawn and incorporate sand or organic matter into the soil to assist with drainage.
• Watering schedule: Water early in the morning to allow the lawn to dry throughout the day.

2. Manage Organic Matter 

Organic matter such as grass clippings, compost piles, and mulch provide nutrients, food sources, and breeding grounds for gnat larvae. These materials retain moisture, which can attract female gnats to lay eggs on your lawn.

Managing organic debris is crucial in disrupting the habitat conducive to gnat reproduction. This involves regularly removing excess grass clippings and maintaining mulch layers and compost piles.

3. Reduce Shade and Plant Density

Gnats are attracted to shady, densely planted areas with poor air circulation, which contributes to moist soil conditions. These factors create an environment where gnats and their larvae can proliferate.

To prevent this, consider these tasks:

• Trim plants: Regularly prune plants to allow sunlight to reach the soil.
• Space plants: Avoid planting too densely; ensure ample space between plants.
• Improve airflow: Consider strategic plant placement or removal to enhance air movement.

4. Beneficial Nematodes

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worms that target and kill lawn gnats in their larval stage. These nematodes are harmless to humans, pets, and plants but deadly to many soil-dwelling pests.

To use beneficial nematodes effectively:

5. Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a natural powder made from fossilized algae. It dehydrates and kills gnats upon contact.

When using diatomaceous earth, observe the following:

• Apply in Dry Conditions: DE must stay dry to be effective, so apply during dry weather.
• Focus on Problem Areas: Spread DE around gnat hotspots such as compost piles and mulch.
• Safe for Plants: Safe for use on houseplants and around potted plants.
• Precaution: Always wear a mask when handling DE to prevent inhalation.

6. Gnat-Repelling Plants

Certain plants naturally repel gnats with their scent. Planting these around your lawn can help keep gnats at bay.

To create a pest-deterrent environment, effective gnat-repelling plants include:

Plant	Details
Marigolds	Known to repel a variety of pests.
Lavender	Pleasant for humans, repulsive to gnats.
Basil	Repels gnats while being a useful herb.

7. Vinegar Traps

In addition to the commercially available flypapers, sticky traps, or fly traps, you can use vinegar, which has attractive properties to lure and trap gnats.

Steps to make an effective vinegar trap include:

1. Use Apple Cider Vinegar: Pour into a shallow dish.
2. Add Drops of Dish Soap: Reduces surface tension and traps gnats more effectively.
3. Cover with Plastic Wrap: Poke holes in the wrap to allow gnats to enter but not escape.
4. Use Strategically: Place gnat traps where gnats are most active.

8. Baking Soda

Baking soda is often recommended as a home remedy for outdoor gnats, a common type of lawn gnat. While the exact science behind its effectiveness has yet to be fully understood, there are two main theories.

9. Essential Oils

Essential oils such as eucalyptus, peppermint, and tea tree oil are natural gnat repellents. These oils can be used in various ways to deter gnats.

Since they are safe for indoor plants and outdoor areas, use essential oils as an insect repellent through:

• Spray Bottle: Mix water with a few drops of essential oil and spray around the lawn.
• Diffuser: Use outdoors to spread the scent over a wide area.
• Cotton Balls: Soak and place around high-gnat-activity zones.

10. Hire a Lawn Care or Pest Control Expert

Lawn care experts can help manage and prevent gnat infestations through proper maintenance and care of outdoor spaces.

To address your gnat problem, professional lawn care includes:

The post Got a Lawn Gnat Problem? Here’s How to Get Rid of Them  appeared first on Sodlawn.

In this post, we’ll discuss when to apply grub control and how to do it effectively. 

Key Takeaways

• The best time to apply grub control will depend on whether you are trying to stop a current infestation or prevent a future one.
• Grub preventers target adult beetles, while grub killers target larvae.
• Depending on the scope of the grub infestation, both chemical and all-natural solutions can be used against grubs.

What Are Grubs?

Grubs are small, lawn-damaging pests that are the larval form of many different types of scarab beetle species such as European chafer grubs, June beetle grubs, Japanese beetle grubs, and more.

Usually, grubs are white and shaped like miniature Cs, curling up and feeding hungrily on the organic matter (usually grass roots) in your soil. Large grubs can decimate your lawn in very little time. 

Signs of a Grub Infestation

If you have a grub problem, there will be some telltale signs like dead patches of grass. Infestations are most common in the spring through late summer, which is when grubs are most active. After that, the damage will likely stop as the grubs pupate and become adults. 

Other signs of a grub problem include:

• The ability to pull back dead patches of lawn like pieces of carpet
• Areas of lawn that feel spongy when you walk on them or touch them
• Six or more grubs in a section of the lawn that appears damaged
• Birds, skunks, or raccoons tearing up your lawn (they love dining on tender grubs!)

When to Apply Grub Control: Factors to Consider

There are a few things to consider when you’re trying to decide on the right time to apply grub control. Here are some of the most significant factors. 

Prevention vs. Removal

Much of this will have to do with the time of year. If it’s spring or summer, there’s a good chance that you’ll want your remedies to target the grubs themselves.

Grub treatments that aim to kill the existing population should be applied any time through the middle of summer until September, which is when they feed the most. It’s also prime time to target grubs before they turn into adult beetles.

If it’s earlier in the year than that, don’t worry. You can apply a grub killer any time you notice any damage.

To prevent grubs in the future, the best time to apply a treatment will be from April through the early fall, depending on the treatment. This will depend on whether you want to stop the grubs from hatching or if you want to kill the adults before they lay their eggs. 

Is It Possible to Apply Grub Control Products Too Early?

The early bird gets the worm—but not necessarily when it comes to grub control and prevention! The best option here is to consider your goals and level of infestation when applying a curative treatment or preventive chemicals.

If you want to prevent grub damage next year or next season, consider using a treatment that is specifically designed to be used with preventive compounds. Insecticides like these are best used when they can be found in high concentrations at the root zone of the grass right at the time when the most eggs and young grubs are present. 

When you time things correctly and use the proper product, you can control the majority of the grubs in your soil, helping you get ahead for next year. 

After Treating for Grubs

After you apply any kind of grub insecticides to the lawn, it’s important that you monitor things carefully to make sure you’re staying on top of the situation. The grubs should be eradicated within a few days or a week. If you still see signs of major grub problems after that, you might want to try a different product.

Should You Apply Grub Control Annually?

If you had a grub problem last year, you may want to use a grub preventive method this year. Otherwise, don’t waste time and money on applying annual grub control methods unless you actually see the damage.

Also, know that grub control may not be necessary even if you do have a grub problem. A few grubs here and there are normal. You don’t need to apply grub control treatments unless the damage is extensive and widespread. 

Tips for Getting Rid of Grubs

Make Sure Grubs Are Actually the Problem

Before you do anything at all, it’s important to make sure that grubs are actually the pests causing you trouble. 

If you notice a dead patch on your lawn, it might not be grubs. Other common causes of dead grass include:

• Dogs that prefer to do all of their “business” in one spot
• Over- or under-fertilizing
• Over- or under-watering
• Other pests, like chinch bugs
• Lawn diseases (usually fungal diseases)

Sometimes, the lawn isn’t dead at all—just dormant. Make sure it’s actually dead and that the culprit is grubs before you take action. 

Avoid Pesticide When Possible

Some healthy grasses with just a few grubs might not need an insecticide at all. A healthy lawn, when supported by regular rainfall and irrigation, can support about five grubs per square foot with no signs of turf damage.

Mow your lawn to 2-4 inches in height (depending on your grass type) and fertilize according to the grass type to make sure it develops healthy roots. Healthy grass that has been fertilized, mowed, and irrigated properly will have the right defenses to repel all kinds of insects, including those that are responsible for grub problems. 

That said, if the grub population is higher than that, or if the area has a history of damage, you may want to get on top of things by using a grub control product. 

Check the Active Ingredients

Be sure to take a close look at the active ingredients in your grub control product. There are many different grub control and preventative products available—some with the same active ingredients. 

Preventive products that are the most effective are those containing things like clothianidin, chlorantraniliprole, thiamethoxam, and imidacloprid. These work best on newly hatched grubs in the early to late summer. They do not work as well from September to May. 

Another reason to take a look at the active ingredients is to protect bees and other pollinators. When applying anything with imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, or clothianidin, you should mow the lawn before you apply it so that weeds aren’t flowering. Otherwise, bees might visit the flowers that were recently sprayed for lawn grubs and be poisoned.

The most effective insecticides to kill all life stages of grubs are those that contain trichlorfon or carbaryl. These are meant to be applied before early May if you want to get the best results. 

Avoid products that contain permethrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, bifenthrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, or lambda-cyhalothrin. These don’t work on grubs at any stage and won’t produce good results. You’ll be wasting your money and spinning your wheels!

Water Immediately 

No matter what kind of insecticide you use, it’s important that you water immediately after you do so. This will make sure that the insecticide is thoroughly soaked into the ground. 

Consider All-Natural Grub Solutions

Although store-bought products are highly effective at getting rid of grubs in most cases, you don’t have to rely solely on them. You can also use natural treatments to get rid of grub worms.

Beneficial nematodes are one such option. As a biological control, these are a good alternative to chemical control and are also inexpensive. You can release these at any time of the year, whether it’s late May or early July, and they’ll work at killing the grubs in the soil. It does take time for them to be effective for your yard, however. 

Another option that’s similar to this is milky spore disease. Like nematodes, milky spores can be purchased online or at a garden store and released into the soil. The response will be slower but longer lasting. 

Use Products at the Right Rate And Volume

Finally, regardless of the product you use, make sure you take a close look at the instructions. Don’t exceed the rate of application listed on the package—there’s no need for this, and it can be damaging to soil life. 

The Bottom Line

There is a time and place for grub control. By understanding when to apply grub control and which products to use, you can keep your lawn healthy all season long.

The post When To Apply Grub Control appeared first on Sodlawn.

Luckily, there are several natural ways to get rid of grubs without using harsh chemicals. 

In this post, we’ll look at a few tips for how to get rid of grubs naturally – no pesticides required! 

Key Takeaways

• Grubs are small worms that are the larvae of scarab beetles like Japanese beetles and June bugs.
• You don’t have to use synthetic pesticides on grub infestations. Try natural remedies instead.
• Options like milky spore disease, neem oil, and aerating are all good measures to take in your fight against grubs. 

What Are Grubs?

Grubs are small pests that are often referred to as grub worms, lawn grubs, and white grubs. Technically, grubs aren’t one kind of pest at all but, instead, the larval stage of multiple different species. These are usually scarab beetles such as June bugs and Japanese beetles.

Grubs feed on more than 300 different plants, including grass.  

These adult beetles lay their eggs in the summer and early autumn months. Then, the eggs hatch into larvae, which burrow deep down into the ground and live on plant and grass roots until spring. 

When spring arrives, the larvae start feeding. They’ll feed hungrily on the roots of your grass until they are mature and ready to leave the soil in the early summer. 

Because the beetles can breed quickly and can overwinter quite well (meaning they survive the winter in the soil instead of being killed by cold temperatures), this is a cycle that will keep going and going until you take action to stop it. Most life cycles for grub species are two to three years. 

The Problem with Grubs on the Lawn

Although one or two grubs here and there is no big deal, a large population can be extremely harmful. You’ll go from a lush, gorgeous lawn to a brown, dead-looking one in no time. 

If you have more than 10 or so grubs per square foot, you’ll start with no significant damage. To determine whether you have 10 or more grubs, measure out a section of lawn that’s a square foot in size. Peel it back, then count the grubs beneath. You can find more details here.

As mentioned earlier, grubs primarily eat grass roots and other organic matter. As they eat, they will destroy the root system. Your grass won’t get the water and nutrients that it so desperately needs. This can cause the grass to develop dead, brown patches that are weakly rooted to the ground. 

As your grub problem intensifies, you may notice that other problematic species are attracted to these affected areas. For example, you might notice new issues with raccoons and other animals that are all too happy to feast upon the grubs eating your grass. 

Signs of a Grub Infestation 

As mentioned earlier, one or two grubs alone is not a problem. However, if you have multiple grubs and are noticing other signs of an infestation, it’s time to take action. 

Most homeowners only realize they have a grub problem when they notice irregular patches of brown grass. Usually, you’ll find them in the spring or summer, which is when grubs are usually the most active (and the hungriest!). 

In addition to patches of brown grass, other signs of a grub infestation include:

• Sections of lawn that are spongy to the touch or when you walk on them
• Increased populations of raccoons and birds, who might be tearing up the lawn
• Sod that’s easy to peel back away from the soil 
• More than 10 grubs per square foot of lawn (which you can calculate by peeling back a layer about one square foot in size and counting how many grubs you see)

How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally: 10 Solutions

If you want to get rid of the grubs on your lawn, don’t worry. You don’t have to rely on chemicals in order to get the job done. We’ve gathered some easy, effective ways to get rid of grubs.

Even if you aren’t totally against the idea of using pesticides, you may want to try these treatments first. They’re less expensive and, sometimes, just as effective as chemical treatments anyway. 

1. Watch Your Watering

Be mindful of how often you are watering the lawn. Grubs thrive on moisture. An easy way to shrink your grub population is to stop providing them with so much water.

This might not always be possible – grubs are often found in vegetable gardens, where water is necessary  – but if you can, try to starve the grubs out by reducing your watering. Moist soil is an ideal habitat for grubs.

Growing a drought-tolerant grass type can help. If you’re in the process of overseeding your lawn, you may want to consider this factor as you make your selection of seeds.

2. Invite Some Birds

Birds love eating grubs. While birds also have the potential to dig up your lawn, you may want to invite them to your property if you have a serious grub problem. Add some bird feeders or birdhouses to entice them to visit. 

If you have chickens, you have a built-in method of grub control right at your disposal. Let the chickens free range and they’ll be thrilled to eat all the grubs for you. Again, you might lose some of your grass in the process, but it could be worth it if it means your grub problem is over. 

3. Relocate the Grubs

This isn’t an ideal method of grub control if you have a large population of these pests to deal with. However, if you only have a few, remove them from the soil and kill them or relocate them to a spot far away from your yard.

How about the chicken coop? If you have chickens, this is one of the best ways to get rid of grubs because the chickens will happily eat all of them for you.

4. Introduce Milky Spore Disease

Milky spores are most damaging to Japanese beetle grubs. You can apply this bacterial disease as a preventative treatment or as a curative one.

It won’t get rid of your grub problem right away, since it targets adults and not larvae. But it will act as a method of control for grubs for years down the road. 

5. Try Beneficial Nematodes

You can also try introducing beneficial nematodes. These are small parasitic worms that can get rid of all kinds of garden pests, such as grubs.

They’re typically used at the same time as milky spores, offering yet another organic way to get rid of grubs.

You can buy nematodes from a reputable retailer like a garden supply store. Simply Put them in the garden as soon as they arrive at your house.

You’ll need to add a new batch once every couple of years to fully eradicate the grubs. 

6. Use Neem Oil 

Neem oil is one of the most popular pest repellants out there. It can be sprayed on your lawn during the egg-laying season to prevent beetles from depositing their eggs there.

Yes, it’s an excellent preventative measure but, as with beneficial nematodes and milky spores, it does take some time to be fully effective. 

7. Get Rid of Adult Beetles 

If you can get rid of the adults, you can get rid of the youngsters.

Make a homemade grub killer that targets beetles. One popular home remedy is to combine lemon juice, dish soap, and mouthwash with a bit of water in a spray bottle. Spray it on your lawn to repel the beatles. 

8. Try a Borax Treatment

Borax is an all-natural chemical that is often used in laundry detergent. It can be toxic to your grass in high quantities, so be mindful of how often you use it.

Add a tablespoon of borax to warm water in a spray bottle. Distribute the solution anywhere you’ve noticed grubs. 

9. Remember to Dethatch and Aerate

Make sure you dethatch and aerate your lawn on a regular basis. A dense layer of thatch is all too inviting for egg-laying pests. It also shelters the grubs. Get rid of it and your lawn will be far less inviting to the pests. 

Aerating is helpful, too. The best time to aerate is in the late summer or fall. This will kill the grubs that are living near the soil surface. 

In general, anything you can do to maintain a healthy lawn is a smart part of your grub treatment plan. Growing a healthy lawn is the best way to prevent pests of all kinds!

10. Switch to Artificial Turf 

Replacing your lawn with synthetic turf is a surefire way to get rid of grubs. Of course, it’s also pretty permanent. You won’t have grubs to contend with anymore, but artificial turf can be expensive to install. It’s a good idea to weigh the pros and cons of both kinds of lawn before you make the switch.

The Bottom Line

If you have a lawn, there’s a good chance you’ve dealt with grubs at some point. These pesky critters can ruin your grass and landscaping in no time. 

While you could use chemical pesticides to get rid of them, getting rid of grubs naturally helps to avoid exposing yourself and your family to harmful chemicals. 

Consider these tips for getting rid of grubs using natural methods and keep your lawn healthy and beautiful all year long.

Related: Got a Lawn Gnat Problem? Here’s How to Get Rid of Them
Related: When to Apply Grub Control

The post How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally appeared first on Sodlawn.

In this post, we’ll provide you with some tips on how to eradicate these pests from your yard. So read on and take heed—those grubs won’t stick around for long. 

Key Takeaways

• Grubs are some of the most frustrating pests for home lawns, leaving behind dead brown patches of grass.
• White grub worms can be eliminated with a variety of natural products, including neem oil and milky spore disease. 
• You can also use a chemical, grub-killing product that contains active ingredients like carbaryl to help get rid of grubs and stop them from coming back. 

What Are Grubs?

Technically, they are the larvae of various types of beetles, such as June beetles and Japanese beetles.

These wiggly little creatures hatch in the spring and summer. At just an inch long, they aren’t all that threatening at first glance, but rest assured; they can wreak havoc on your lawn.

White grub worms curl up into a C-shape when they are disturbed and burrow deep into the lawn, feeding on the grass roots. One or two grubs aren’t necessarily a problem, but a large group of them can be a serious problem.

So where did these nasty grubs come from? They’re a natural part of the ecosystem, which is why they are so common, but some lawns are more prone to an infestation than others. That’s because grubs tend to show up when lawns are overwatered or are suffering from some other problem, like disease.

Some of this has to do with the overall health of your lawn. A weak, unhealthy lawn will be more vulnerable to an invasion than a healthy lawn. The type of grass also plays a role. Ryegrass, for instance, is irresistible to grubs.

Signs of a Grub Infestation

The first sign of a problem is the appearance of brown, dead patches in your lawn. These can be caused by many other things like overwatering or underwatering, fungal infections, over-fertilizing, or even a dog that’s a bit overzealous about where he goes to the bathroom!

However, you will know that it’s grubs if you can pull up the grass and the sod separates easily from the soil. This indicates that grubs have chewed through the roots entirely.

Signs of infestation usually appear in mid to late summer; this can vary though. 

Another sign of grub activity is increased animal presence. Grubs are a favorite food of many types of animals, including birds, skunks, and raccoons. If you see these animals or if you notice lots of holes in your lawn, that’s a sign that they’re digging or pecking in search of grubs. 

Other signs include:

• A spongy turf
• Seeing lots of white grubs on the soil surface
• Brown, straw-like patches on the lawn 

Once you suspect grubs, it’s important to do a soil test. Remove a square foot of grass about three inches deep from one of these brown areas. If you see less than five grubs, you’re probably okay—that’s a normal population of grubs. 

If there are ten or more, that’s an infestation, and you need to take action! 

How to Get Rid of Lawn Grubs

There are several different ways you can get rid of lawn grubs. Here are a few of the best tried and true techniques. 

Beneficial Nematodes

Beneficial nematodes are parasitic worms that are naturally occurring in the soil. These microscopic creatures release bacteria into the grubs, killing them off in an organic and eco-friendly way.

Although releasing beneficial nematodes is one of the most effective ways to get rid of grubs, it’s a slow process. They take several years to be fully effective.

If you decide to release beneficial nematodes, you can purchase them online or at a garden store. Release them in the afternoon as soon as you receive them. And water them thoroughly after the release. 

Milky Spore

Milky spore disease is similar to beneficial nematodes because it is all natural and safe to use around children and pets. It is a bacterium that is deadly to certain types of grubs (particularly Japanese beetle larvae).

Sprinkle the milky spore powder onto your lawn and watch the grub problem go away. Again, though, it takes up to three years to be fully effective. That said, it’s a natural way to get rid of grubs that won’t harm any other soil life like a chemical pesticide might, so it’s worth considering. 

Encourage Birds

Birds love feasting on grubs. They feed on both the adult and larval versions of these pests. 

Consider installing a few birdhouses near your home and lawn. You’ll likely start seeing birds, like wrens, flying around with grub worms hanging from their beaks. The increased feeding activity should help reduce the population of grubs. Just keep in mind that the birds may also start pecking and digging up the lawn to find the food, which can be problematic in itself.

Dry Things Out

Although you want to avoid underwatering your lawn, one way to make your lawn less hospitable to grubs is to let things dry out. Grubs need moist soil to thrive, which is why they aren’t as common in drought-like conditions.

Try Neem Oil

Neem oil is another natural treatment that you can use to get rid of grubs. It prevents grubs from feeding and growing into adults, breaking the life cycle. Neem oil works. 

The active ingredient in neem oil is azadirachtin, which reduces insect feeding patterns and interferes with their hormones. This makes it difficult for them to grow and lay their eggs. 

Combine neem oil with water and spray it on your grub-infested lawn with a sprayer. Make sure you spray liberally over the areas of dead grass so you can get the larvae that are hiding there.

Use Dish Soap

Dish soap is another option to explore. It’s not 100% effective at controlling grubs since it only kills on contact, but it can help you control a mild infestation. Combine dish soap with water and spray it over the area of infestation. It should kill any  grubs and beetles. 

Use a Pesticide 

Insecticides may not be your first choice when you’re looking for ways to get rid of grubs, but they can be highly effective when it comes to lasting grub control. 

There are both preventive and curative pesticides you can use. Curative pesticides get rid of existing larvae, while preventative products prevent them from coming back.

A grub control product usually contains active ingredients like carbaryl or trichlorfon. You’ll want to read the instructions carefully when you apply these products, as each brand and formulation has different instructions in terms of when and how to apply. 

You’ll usually spray or use a broadcast spreader to administer the chemical to the affected areas.

In general, if you use a chemical pesticide, you should plan on treating for grubs in the late spring through early summer months for best results.

Preventing Lawn Grubs in the Future

The best thing you can do to prevent lawn grubs from taking hold in the future is to keep your lawn as healthy as possible. 

The adult beetles don’t like to lay their eggs in tall, healthy grass. Keep the lawn properly fertilized, avoid overwatering and underwatering, and above all, make sure you mow high. Let the grass grow taller, at least two inches or so in height. 

You should try to fertilize and seed your lawn in the fall (as long as your grass type is amenable to being fertilized in the autumn). Most beetles won’t lay their eggs in grass that’s lush and healthy. It’s far easier for them to infest lawns that have weaker roots, since they’ll be able to burrow more deeply.

 The best time to fertilize is in the early fall since this is when most species of grub-producing beetles lay their eggs, but some grass types may need fertilizing in the early spring months instead. 

By seeding and fertilizing, you can repair the grub damage (even significant damage) and prevent new beetles from laying new eggs. Fertilize after reseeding to help the lawn regenerate and water deeply. 

The Bottom Line

If you’re dealing with an infestation of grubs, there are things you can do to get rid of them and prevent them from coming back. 

Consider using one or more of the tips we’ve shared to help eliminate these pests from your lawn for good.

The post How To Get Rid Of Grubs appeared first on Sodlawn.

Bark Beetles are capable of releasing a chemical that attracts mates before boring into the tree and starting to make tunnels. This species mostly does this in trees, as it begins mating with other beetles inside their nuptial chamber. The female then chews through bark tissue for long intervals called galleries which lead them deeper within the inner layers of woody material. The bark beetle family is the most destructive group of insects in America. They can kill trees with their sharp mouthparts, and 60% of all tree deaths are caused by them! There are more than 6,000 species worldwide – they reproduce on a single type of wooded plant or die out if there isn’t any food around for them to eat.

Bronze Birch Borer

The bronze birch borer is a small, slender beetle less than 1/2-inch long. The larval stage feeds just under the bark of birch trees and newly hatched larvae are about an inch in length while mature ones may be % to 14 inches wide or even wider. The effects of a borer are first noticed when the top portion withers and dies. The larva that is responsible for this damage infests one branch, which eventually girdles it as their attack continues to move up or down from there. This results in most branches dying off until the trunk has been completely eaten away by these creatures – resulting in total tree death!

Gypsy Moth

The gypsy moth is an invasive species of moths from Europe that has been a problem in North America since the late 1800s. This pest can cause serious damage to more than 600 plant species, primarily oak and aspen trees. When populations reach very high levels, these defoliating pests may destroy foliage on some types of trees over consecutive years before finally killing them off entirely after several cycles. The gypsy moth is a perfect example of an experiment gone wrong. The moths were brought to the United States in 1869 and immediately escaped, becoming a major pest for over 100 years since then as they destroy all trees that are not coniferous.

Hemlock Wooly Adelgid

The hemlock woolly adelgids are aphid-like insects that can be observed at the base of individual Easter or Carolina hemlock needles, covering themselves with fluffy white cottony wax. They feed on sap and inject toxic saliva into new twig growth; damage first appears as needle discoloration followed by premature needle drop, branch desiccation, and loss of vigor. The limb dieback of trees in the Eastern United States is caused by a fungus that originated from Asia. The disease takes up to two years before it begins its irreversible process, and four to eight more until death occurs.

Lerp Psyllid

These psyllids form a lerp, which is a secretionary structure produced by the nymphs from honeydew as a protective cover. They are small insects that suck sap from leaves and cause leaf damage and drop, which may stress trees or make them susceptible to fatal attacks by other pests like eucalyptus planthoppers. These tiny critters also produce an irritating substance called “honeydew” in copious amounts on sidewalks & cars! The red gum lerp psyllid was first discovered in 1998 and has been spreading across the state.

Scales

The scales of the Soft Scales are so thin that they can’t be separated from their bodies. They secrete a waxy layer to cover themselves and this causes damage by removing vital plant fluids with their sucking mouthparts. Leaf, needle, or branch stunting is possible in numbers and yellowing leaves may occur if left untreated for too long because it stunts photosynthesis which prevents plants from getting energy through sunlight while killing them slowly over time. Scales are pesky and infrequent pests of many evergreen and deciduous plants. They can be found on leaves, twigs, branches, or trunks. Their very small size makes them difficult to notice by the casual observer at first glance but their lack of mobility is what separates these pests from other more noticeable insects like ants that will swarm over your house if left unchecked for too long!

Related: Beetles In Your Lawn

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Females are the only ones to leave their turfgrass, as they search for other plants to lay eggs. The females then return after laying their eggs and resume feeding on roots and organic matter during the summer months. In fall when soil temperatures cool down below freezing point, grubs move deep into the ground where it’s warm waiting out winter there until springtime when they go deeper than before so that by May pupation can begin!

The damage Japanese beetles cause to trees, ornamentals, and turfgrass is extensive. More than a half-billion dollars every year goes towards trying to control them. And it’s not just gardeners who are affected; the problem of managing this beetle has resulted in an array of management recommendations such as companion planting and host plant resistance among others. Let’s take a careful look at some folklore surrounding Japanese beetles – will these anecdotes balance with field research?

Trapping folklore

The Japanese beetle is attracted to both floral and fruity smells. Based on this, traps were created that are used for management purposes on the beetles as adults or larvae in gardens. These traps have been shown to help reduce defoliation and grubs which can be a nuisance in lawns. When evaluated in replicated experiments, however, the presence of traps didn’t reduce the amount of damage to nearby plants. In fact, they increased defoliation while having no effect on grub populations!

Milky Disease

The milky disease is a bacterial infection that can affect grubs. The milky-white appearance of an infected grub results from the ingestion of spores by these insects while they feed on food sources with this bacteria in them, such as soil or plants nearby where it’s been introduced. The milky disease has often been found to be present when other factors have made for high populations within areas like farms and fields due to its ability to control growth rates among those numbers over time! 

Japanese beetles have caused infestations on turf, and these insects are hard to get rid of. The problem is that the commercial powders containing millions of bacterial spores did not fulfill their claim as a “natural” insecticide. Although people were applying them for grub control, they didn’t result in reduced numbers or increased occurrence rates over time, This is an odd phenomenon that has caused some concern in the past.

Analysis showed significant contamination of milky disease powders with other non-infective bacterial spores, but it’s not as bad as you might think.

Companion planting

Companion planting is the art of combining plants in a garden to benefit each other. For example, one plant could help repel pests while another attracts bees and butterflies that might pollinate it or provide natural fertilizer from their droppings. Many people use aromatic herbs as companion plants because they can mask unpleasant odors like garlic for those who want an herb garden but don’t want to smell up the whole neighborhood!

Pairing these two types of gardens offers many benefits; not only does it give your yard more variety with less maintenance needed, but you also get increased protection against damaging insects such as Japanese beetles on roses which are favorites targets when growing flowers organically without pesticides.

Plant selection

Scientists have discovered that while no resistance to beetle feeding has been shown among the many rose cultivars, there is considerable variation in other plants. In field trials with different plant families and between unique species of those same family members, some show complete defoliation from beetles, others untouched by any type of infestation. This information can be applied for use to get ahead on this problem by planting resistant crops next door or near one another so they will help each other out when it comes time to fend off these pesky insects!

To attract Japanese beetles, many people plant ornamental plants like cannas and hibiscus in their yards. However, if a person wants the best chance to have these bugs land on them, they should be planted with cultivars with yellow flowers or white ones because those colors are more attractive to them than any other kind.

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